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How to Change the Oil in Your Car (http://www.wikihow.com/Change-the-Oil-in-Your-Car)

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Regular oil changes are critical to maintaining your vehicle. Over time the oil in your car breaks down and loses some of its lubricating properties. It can become contaminated with things like dirt, water, and fuel that reduce its effectiveness. Plan to change your motor oil (http://www.wikihow.com/Switch-to-Synthetic-Motor-Oil) on the cycle recommended in your car's manual. For some vehicles, it's 3,000 miles or three months; for others, it's 5,000 miles. However, you may want to do it more often if you've been driving in very hot and/or dusty conditions or make very frequent short trips. Steps



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An oil pan and socket wrench.





Gather all the necessary supplies and equipment. Under your car with all the oil out is not the time to discover what is missing. It will help to have everything close at hand.
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Raise the car, if necessary.





Find a flat surface suitable for changing your oil. Level driveways or alleys are ideal. Start by getting the car up on the ramps or jack stands. If you're working on a car with a high ground clearance, which doesn't need to be raised, you can just shimmy on under. This saves time and is safer: if the car isn't up, it can't fall down! If you do jack up your car, be sure to put blocks behind the back tires to prevent the car from rolling backward. Allow the engine to cool off before continuing (this is not required; however, it is a good idea).
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The oil drain plug.





Locate the drain plug for the oil pan. It is normally towards the back of the engine at the underside of the car, and is angled down. The bolt size will vary from car to car, is in the 13-30mm range. All Toyota and Lexus are 14mm (older models may be 13mm), all Mercedes Benz are 13mm, Jaguars are 30mm, older Volvos are 25mm, BMWs are 17mm, VW and Audi are 19mm, Honda and Acura are 17mm. All others are between 13 and 19mm. On some vehicles it you may have to remove a shield on the bottom of the vehicle to have access to the oil pan. All Mercedes have a plastic shield held on with six (6) 8mm screws and some pickups and SUVs will have steel skid plates.
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Oil has a tendency to come out at an angle.





Position whatever you are catching the oil with under the plug, then loosen the bolt. Oil has a tendency to come out of the pan at an angle, so make sure the opening on your container is pretty large. Lay something under the car to catch oil runoff. As the oil comes out of the pan at an angle, it can be tricky to catch, and may land on the ground. If this includes your driveway, you will want some newspaper or a dropcloth to catch it, or you risk an oil stain (http://www.wikihow.com/Remove-Oil-Stains-from-Concrete-Driveway-and-Garage) on your driveway or garage.
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Removing the drain plug gasket.





Continue removing the bolt. You should also remove and replace the gasket under the drain plug. Be careful not to drop the plug in the oil, it's a messy job trying to find the plug in the black stuff.

If you do drop it in the pan, you can easily find it with a magnet. Ideally, use the type that is at the end of an expandable rod.
Another easy way to "save" the drain plug is to use a funnel with a bit of screening in it. Catch the plug as it falls out. You can then pull the funnel out of the way of the stream and set it to one side.

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The oil filler cap.


While your oil is draining, pop the hood (http://www.wikihow.com/Get-Under-the-Hood-of-a-Vehicle) of the car and open the oil filler cap on the top of the engine. This will help the oil drain easier. Some people prefer doing this step before working under the car.
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Remove the filter, using a filter socket or filter wrench if necessary.


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Tip the filter into your pan to drain the contents.


Locate the filter assembly. This can be a tough part. Filters are not put in a standard position, and they can be on the front, back and side of engines. Look at the filter you purchased to replace the old one and look for something similar. Once you have located it, remove it from the engine. This can be tough, and often seems too hard. If you can't get it off by hand, use an oil filter wrench. Keep trying. It will eventually come off. There may be some residual oil in the filter, so be careful not to spill it and have a pan underneath to catch the drips.



When removing the oil filter, make sure that the rubber gasket ring comes off with the filter. If you don't and it sticks to the car, the new filter won't seal properly and will leak.
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Lubricate the gasket on the new filter with a bit of oil.





When installing the new filter, remove all packaging, then dip the tip of your finger in the new oil and smear it on the gasket ring of the new filter. If you use the old oil, it may contain buildup that will wear away between the gasket and the car and eventually become a leak.
You might pour some oil into the filter prior to installing it. This can reduce the amount of time your car takes to regain proper oil pressure. If your filter is mounted vertically, you may be able to fill it almost to the top. If it is at an angle, you may be able to get just a few tab****oons worth in, just to saturate the filter media. It's actually not necessary if the car has not been stored, there is enough oil left on the bearings to lubricate until pressure is built up; if you'll notice, no garages pre-fill the filter.

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Replace the drain plug.


Replace the drain plug on the oil pan. Don't forget to install a replacement gasket. Take care not to cross the threads (http://www.wikihow.com/Reinstall-Screws-and-Bolts).
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This would be a good time to wipe any debris or buildup off the surface where the gasket will seat.


Carefully screw on the new, lubricated filter, being careful to not cross the threads. With the paper cartridge filters, they will always come with at least one o-ring, sometimes as many as four different ones. Make sure to replace all of them to ensure that they will not leak.
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A funnel will help.


Add oil to the car at the fill hole up to the amount in the owner's manual. Don't rely on the dip stick for an accurate measurement; it can be off. If the manual calls for five quarts, put in five. Also if the engine has been run, the stick will read low because there is still oil in the galleries. If you want to check the stick for accuracy, just check it first thing in the morning. It's a relative thing.


If you hold the bottle with the spout on top, as shown, it will pour more smoothly, without bubbling.

Replace the fill cap and close the hood.
Start the engine, watching to be sure the oil pressure light goes off after start-up, and be sure to look under the car while the engine is running (put car in park or neutral with the parking brake on) to check for any drips. If the filter and drain plug aren't tight, they may leak slowly. Run the engine for a minute or so.



Tips




Be sure you have purchased the right filter and have all the tools you need before starting. It's a pain to have to run back to the store in the middle of the job, especially since you won't be able to use your car.
It's helpful to have a friend who has done this before around for assistance.
To avoid getting oil all over your arm when removing the drain plug bolt, apply inward force (as if you are trying to push the plug back into the hole) while removing it. When you know that bolt is fully unscrewed, quickly pull it away from the opening. If you're lucky only a few drops will get on your hand. Tie a rag around your wrist when you remove the oil plug. Oil might get all over your hands, but it won't go all the way down your arm, making it a messy clean up. Also consider using disposable gloves to keep your hands perfectly clean. Latex rubber will decay quickly in oil, so nitrile or another material is a better choice.
If you don't have a wrench to take off the oil filter, hammer a screwdriver straight through the filter. This will give you some leverage to turn it. It does get a bit messy but saves you a bit of money.
There are some oil drain valves on the market that replace your normal drain pan bolt. These can make oil changes much more convenient and can reduce the amount of mess you make.
To avoid spilling too much oil as you remove the filter, wrap a plastic bag around the filter, which will catch any oil that escapes as you remove it.
You can lower your costs to 10 dollars by buying cheaper oil and filters if you so choose. Remember, though, to always make sure that the oil you use fulfills the car manufacturer's requirements as stated in the manual. Be sure to use the oil specified in the owners manual as to viscosity. That's the number that looks like "10W-30". A more expensive filter can remove much more muck than the cheap ones; consider it engine insurance. High detergent oils help clean a dirty engine, so can an additive like Bardahl or Marvel Mystery Oil. Substitute additive amounts for the like quantity of oil.



Warnings



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Iridescence in an engine oil spill





Recycle (http://www.wikihow.com/Recycle) your oil or store it if you have to. Dumping it on the ground is not cool and is illegal. Your local auto store or garage will take your used oil for free, in most cases. Many of them heat their garages with waste oil so they are happy to get it.
Try to figure out a way to avoid lifting the car; it is dangerous and wastes time. Parking over a trench or ditch, or with two wheels up on a curb, often works, but be sure to take every safety precaution while doing this also (emergency wheels, block the wheels, etc.).
Never, ever work under a car that is up on a jack. If you must jack up the car, block the wheels, put it on jack stands and do the whole thing on a level concrete surface.
Be careful not to burn yourself! Your engine, the used oil inside it, and other parts of the car can stay hot enough to burn you for a long time after you turn the ignition off.
Refer to your owner's manual for jack/lift instructions; improper jack placement can damage your car badly.
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Recommended reading.





This how-to is not meant for all cars, and certainly shouldn't be your only source of information. Always consult your owner's manual for manufacturer's recommendations when determining your maintenance schedule.
Don't get the oil inlet confused with the transmission fluid inlet. You can ruin your transmission if you put oil in it.
If you don't use the correct wrench on the drain plug bolt you run the risk of "rounding it off" (destroying the head of the bolt).
Do NOT over-tighten the new filter. Always tighten it by hand and not with a wrench.
If your newer vehicle has synthetic oil STAY synthetic. You can mix conventional and synthetic in your older car, but NEVER go back to only conventional once synthetic is introduced. Seal and gasket failure may result. Likewise, don't switch to synthetic if you have an older car that has used conventional oil until now.
Don't overfill; that can cause foaming or spills.
Be careful with additives, synthetic oils, etc. Many of these products are more marketing than substance, and some can void your warranty or harm your vehicle. Check with the service people at your dealership first.



Things You'll Need



Oil (check your owner's manual for specific weight and quantity needed). Most, but not all cars, use 5 quarts.
Socket wrench (for foreign cars you will likely need a metric set)
Oil filter (contact your local auto parts store for specific model of filter). Expensive ones clean oil better. The ones that have a coating are easier to install and tighten.
Oil filter wrench. There are different size oil wrenches available depending on the diameter of the filter. The expensive one that is double articulated is the surest one to use.
A way to get your car off the ground (ramps or a jack & jack stands work best)
Something to catch the used oil in
Oil rags or paper towel (optional)
Some vehicles require you to remove top or bottom panels, which might require screwdrivers.
Washer fluid (optional) Since most lube places replace washer fluid, it's likely a good time to do the same.

[alzheimer]

[/url]
[url="http://www.wikihow.com/Change-the-Oil-in-Your-Car-from-the-Top-of-the-Engine"]How to Change the Oil in Your Car from the Top of the Engine (http://www.wikihow.com/Category:Changing-Car-Parts)

Some cars, including most VW group cars and Mercedes have top mounted oil filters, which eliminates the need to crawl beneath the engine.

This only works if the car does not have baffles between the bottom of the dipstick and the bottom of the oil pan.

Steps


Obtain an oil drain pump. These are available at some consumer auto parts stores, and at boater (marine) supply stores. Well-known brands are Pella and Topsider.
Obtain oil, filter, tools for removing oil filter.
If this is the first time and you hadn't verified that a topside oil change works for your car, obtain a drain pan. A disposable roasting or flat gallon (4 liter) coolant container will do.
Remove the oil filter. There's information on this in Change the Oil in Your Car (http://www.wikihow.com/Change-the-Oil-in-Your-Car)
It's best to remove the filter first unless you're familiar with the car. The reason -- it's possible to be able to drain the oil but not be able to remove the filter. On the other hand, if you can remove the filter, it's unlikely you'll have a problem with draining the oil.
Insert the topside pump's tube into the dipstick, gently feeding until it hits the bottom of the oil pan. Do not force beyond that point; otherwise the tube will turn upward. Use the drain pump per the instructions.
If you are unsure of the suitability of the topside pump for your engine, open the oil drain to see if any remaining oil can be drained the conventional way.
Replace filter, replenish oil.




Tips



Unlike conventional drainage, topside oil changes are best done with the oil warm but not hot. The hot oil makes the tube too soft, allowing it to collapse and making it difficult to determine you hit the bottom of the oil pan. Cold oil can be drained but can take considerable time.
Some cars have baffles between the bottom of the dipstick tube and the bottom of the oil pan. This is checked by opening the drain plug after using the topside pump.
The first few times, it helps to have a knowledgeable friend watch.
Oil disposal varies depending on location, including curb-side pickup, central receiving locations, and automotive stores and service stations. (Waste oil is a toxic waste material, but is economically recycled.)
Many municipal drop-off locations have limited posted hours but are unofficially open 24/7 for individuals who want to drop off oil without taking a day off from work.
Topside oil changes mean you don't automatically inspect under your car. Make it a habit to look under there during each oil change.




Warnings



Never, ever work under a car that is up on a jack. Jack the car up, then put it on a jack stand.
Be aware of the heat of some parts of the car that you'll be working around. No-one likes to get burned.
Be sure you have the drain plug in and filter attached before adding oil and starting the car.
Do NOT over tighten the new filter. Tighten it by hand first, then 1/2-3/4 of a turn more with a filter wrench.




Things You'll Need



topside pump (Pella, Topsider, other brands)
oil filter wrench
oil, oil filter
plastic bag or other receptacle for oil filter
roll of paper towels
"If you have not confirmed that topside changes work for your car" - oil drain pan and wrench for drain plug.
"also helpful"
funnel

[alzheimer]

How to Store a Car (http://www.wikihow.com/Store-a-Car)

This article explains how to store a car for a long time.

Steps


Inflate the tires to proper pressure. If storing your car for more than 2 or 3 months, jack it up and put it on axle stands. This will stop the tires becoming mis-shapen.
Change the oil and filter.
Fill the gas tank with fresh gas.
Add gas stabilizer to the gas and run the car long enough to circulate the stabilized gas.
Open a window slightly if stored indoors.
If it is a convertible, put the top up.
Add an air freshener to the car to avoid "old car odor".
Remove all belongings.
Clean the interior.
Attach a battery maintainer to avoid a flat battery, or install a battery knife switch to disconnect the battery before storage.
Lock the doors.
Put a cover on the car.




Tips



Use a cover that is ventilated.




Warnings



Be sure to add stabilizer to the gas. If you don't, you will be seeing engine problems.




Things You'll Need



Oil and Filter
Gas Stabilizer
Battery Maintainer
Battery Knife Switch
Air freshener

[alzheimer]

How to Fix a Car That Stalls (http://www.wikihow.com/Fix-a-Car-That-Stalls)

There are many things that could cause a car to stall. Fortunately, this usually does not signal a major repair to your vehicle, and it can generally be fixed through some relatively minor adjustments or repairs.

Steps


Consider the complexity of your car before beginning. Modern cars (mid-nineties or later) are extremely computer controlled, and it will be difficult for you to make any adjustments. You may want to take it into the shop to address this problem.
The stall is likely caused by either a problem in the electrical system or in the fuel system. Your engine stops running because it is not igniting gas in the cylinders, this occurs either because there isn't gas to ignite, or because it lacks the electrical charge to ignite it.
Drive the car up and down steep hills. Does this change the performance of the engine, or cause it to stall? This might indicate a clogged fuel filter. Replacing the fuel filter is relatively cheap and easy once you find out where it's located.
Does the car idle roughly and stall when at idle? If your car has a distributor, you may need to adjust the timing. With the right tools and know how, this is an easy and free task.
If your car has a distributor, you might consider changing the cap, rotor, wires and plugs. This is effectively a tune up. This can usually be done even by a relative novice to car repair, and take a couple of hours with the right tools. It seems counterintuitive, but even the wires and distributor decay over time, and transmit less electricity. This tune up may solve your stalling problem -- even if not, your car should run better and get better mileage.
If your car diesels when you turn off the ignition, it often signals the need to replace the spark plugs. Dieseling describes the situation where you turn off the key, yet the car continues to run for a few seconds or longer, eventually sputtering to a stop.




Tips



If you can find a friend who knows how to work on cars, ask them to teach you how to do these things.




Warnings



Working on your car can be dangerous. Don't attempt any of these fixes while the car is running!

[alzheimer]

How to Extend the Life of Your Car (http://www.wikihow.com/Extend-the-Life-of-Your-Car)


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With rising gas prices and very costly repairs, the last thing you want to worry about is if and when your car is going to break down. Here's how to protect your investment, and get from Point A to Point B as reliably as possible.




Steps


Check the fluids: You should check the level of your antifreeze, oil, transmission fluid, power steering fluid, and brake fluid, very regularly, like everytime you buy gas. Even if your car doesn't leak fluids, it can develop a leak and quickly have a dangerously low level of something. You should also check the color of some of these fluids. Some of these have see-through plastic tanks that you can look through, and some have dipsticks. Antifreeze should be either pink, green, or yellow (Pink for newer cars with "Dex-Cool", green for old cars with plain Ethyl-Glycol, and green or yellow for cars that have been flushed and filled with universal antifreezes...brown antifreeze should always be flushed, it either has rust or a lot of dirt in it, probably both. Also, never mix antifreezes; if you don't know what color antifreeze your car has, buy a universal brand. Oil should be relatively clear, not black...black oil has been left in the engine for too long. Oil that looks white and milkshake-like has water in it, probably from an internal antifreeze leak, or very rarely, just a large amount of condensation. Transmission fluid should be bright red, and should not smell burnt...it probably needs to be changed if it's brown or smells burnt.
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Fresh, clean oil.


Change the oil (http://www.wikihow.com/Change-the-Oil-in-Your-Car) regularly: This will improve your gas mileage and protect your engine. The recommended mileage between oil changes is 3,000 - 5,000 miles (or 5000 - 8000 kilometres) or every 3 to 12 months. Change the oil filter as well - there is no sense in putting clean oil through a dirty filter, and filters are under five dollars at any parts store. Please check your service manual, or contact your dealer for your car's specific needs.
Change the air filter: This is something you can do easily at home without using tools, and is probably the most critical aspect (second only to changing the oil) to prolonging engine life and improving mileage. You can buy a matching filter at nearly any auto parts store and your owner's manual will show you where your air filter is located. A dirty, dusty filter can severely lower gas mileage & cause an engine to stall.
Flush the fluids every two years: power steering fluid, and brake fluid. Power steering fluid prevents the buildup of sludge and varnish that can affect your car's handling. Brake fluid helps to lengthen the life of your brakes two years or more. Finally, transmission fluid you should be careful with because it can end up causing more damage to flush the transmission system when not absolutely necesary.
Flush the cooling system: every two years. Renewing the coolant in your radiator will protect components and prevent corrosion. A poorly maintained cooling system can accumulate rust and sediment in the system, which can ultimately lead to engine damage or breakdown. The only exception to this rule are the new sealed systems that utilize "Dexcool" (the pink stuff). These systems are designed to stay sealed for extended periods of time, and depending on your car manufacturer should only be flushed once every 50,000 to 100,000 miles.
Monitor your brake pad thickness and don't let the pads wear down to metal - this will cause damage to your brake rotors ("discs") at least and possibly your calipers as well. Rotors and calipers are much more expensive to replace (http://www.wikihow.com/Replace-Disc-Brakes) than pads. There is no such thing as "cleaning" a brake pad while it is still on a car - the friction between the pad and rotor will eradicate any outside substance almost immediately.
Rotate the tires. Changing tire position reduces uneven wear and tear on the tread, thus extending the life of the tires. The recommended rotation cycle is twice a year or every 6,000 miles. Rotate them diagonally - front right to rear left and front left to rear right. However, this pattern can change depending on the drivetrain of the vehicle, and the type of tire. Often your vehicle manual will contain detailed rotation information. Remember to always keep the better tires at the rear for improved traffic safety. No car is designed to take an impact from the rear safely, so you should keep the better tires at the rear to keep the car moving front first in case of emergency braking. Keep in mind which way the tire rotates and never change the rotation direction.
Keep the tires inflated (http://www.wikihow.com/Check-the-Air-Pressure-in-Your-Vehicle%27s-Tires). Under-inflated tires can reduce the tire life by 15% and will slightly decrease your gas mileage, perhaps by 10%. Inflating tires is perhaps the easiest of all activities, and many stores sell tire gauges for $1. Proper inflation can make a vehicle accelerate faster, with more power. Checking your tire pressure every other time you get gas will reduce tire wear and prevent these issues. Monitor your tire tread (http://www.wikihow.com/Know-when-Car-Tires-Need-Replacing) with a penny. Insert the penny into the tread with Lincoln's head down. If the top of his head is not obscured by the tread, your tires need to be replaced. Basically, if you can see all of Lincoln's head, you should be thinkin' new tread. NOTE: Inflated tires roll easier, so allow extra braking time to stop, since the tires no longer "ooze" to the stop.
Keep the front end aligned. If you notice your car shaking while driving at high speeds (not while braking - shuddering while braking indicates warped rotors), or if your tread is wearing unevenly, then you may need an alignment. This is also key to extending the life of your tires and will keep the tread even for increased safety.
Get your car off to a good start every time you drive it. Start the car and drive off slowly and gently until the car reaches operating temperature. This reduces the strain on the engine while the oil is still cold and thicker. Another option is to use electric engine space heaters, and start the drive with a warm engine. Accelerate promptly to the target speed. For most modern cars, idling a cold engine is both counterproductive and wasteful.
Use your parking brake: Even if you are driving a car with an automatic transmission, use your parking brake regularly, especially if you're parked on an incline. It helps keep the brakes adjusted in the rear of the car and makes them last longer. Also, not using your parking brake on an automatic can cause the parking brake mechanism to stick. Many people have used their parking brake, and had to get their cars towed, because it wouldn't release. It can also just stick in the released position, and if your brakes go out, they won't work. Remember to unlock parking brakes: many people wonder why they're moving so slow, when forgetting to release the parking brake.
Wash your car (http://www.wikihow.com/Wash-a-Car-by-Hand)': Road salt, sludge and pollution can lead to costly body work. Without regular cleaning, you can start to notice rust on the bottom of your doors within four years. Another three to four years and the corrosion will creep to underbody components, like brake lines. It can cost thousands in rust-related repairs if you neglect to wash your car, especially near ocean/gulf shorelines where the road sand or morning dew might be salty.
Drive less. Especially, avoid short trips. Cold starts are hard on engines, your gas mileage, and the environment. Short trips can also significantly shorten the life of your muffler. Basically, you get condensation in the exhaust when you start a cold engine, and if you don't run the car for long enough to evaporate all of the condensation out of the system, excessive amounts of water can accumulate in your muffler, and rust a hole through it. Avoid starting a cold car just to pull it into the garage, for instance. Consider walking to the nearest store for a change. Combine short errands, and, if you have multiple vehicles, drive the one more recently driven when you go out again. Do drive a car at least every week or so, since cars that sit for longer than a week or two at a time have other problems, such as fluids gradually draining out of systems. Consult a mechanic if you will store a car for an extended period.
Drive on the highway. At least once a month, go on a longer trip, on a faster road. This process warms up the engine completely and helps to burn off some of the buildup that can accumulate during short, in-town trips and stop-and-go driving.




Tips



The best thing that you can do to extend the life of your car and potentially save yourself a bundle of money is to have your car serviced on a routine basis. All car manufacturers have a schedule of recommended service for each vehicle they sell. Follow this schedule. The best place to have work done on a new vehicle that is still under warranty is the dealership. On cars without a warranty, it is best to find a reputable independent shop and have it serviced regularly there.
Check your local auto parts dealer for manuals specific to your car for complete instructions on how to perform basic maintenance on your vehicle. Often, you will save a bundle of cash doing simple tune-up work on your own. Schucks and Autozone are great stores that have these manuals.
http://www.wikihow.com/images/thumb/6/6d/Oilchange13.JPG/180px-Oilchange13.JPG (http://www.wikihow.com/Image:Oilchange13.JPG) http://www.wikihow.com/skins/common/images/magnify-clip.png (http://www.wikihow.com/Image:Oilchange13.JPG)
Worth reading.


Consult your mechanic or your owner’s manual. Depending on the manufacturer, there are different procedures to take for each vehicle.
If your user manual says it's best to let the car warm up a little first before forcing it to apply power to the wheels, it's best to follow it and do so; for as written several times before, the people who made it know best.
Manual transmission cars or cars with turbo/superchargers will require different maintenance schedules, depending on the climate, road conditions. Always consult your owner's manual or ask a local dealership service department.
Synthetic oils may be initially more expensive, but provide better protection than regular motor oil. On your switch to synthetic, change the filter, drain all old oil, and add new synthetic. Then each 3000 miles, change the filter, but DO NOT drain the oil every time. Instead, add enough oil to replace what was lost in the filter change only (usually less than one quart). After 15,000 miles, change out all of the oil completely. This is safe for cars, especially newer ones. The synthetic oils are detergent oils, meaning they suspend dirt and carry it to the filter. Non-detergent oils wash oil around, leaving deposits of sludge elsewhere. Also, synthetic oil doesn't breakdown as naturally derived oil does, as heat doesn't affect it the same way. Synthetic is most recommended for cars that have had oil changes performed regularly since purchase, and for engines with less than 60,000 miles, as wear will be less. Remember, synthetics are designed to reduce wear, but they will not undo wear.




Warnings



Check Warranty: Check the terms and conditions before repairing your vehicle on your own while if it is still under warranty. Unless you are a certified mechanic, this may invalidate your warranty.
Beware First-time Repairs: Do not attempt to complete repairs on your vehicle without supervision if you have never attempted a repair before. Today's cars are complex jigsaw-puzzles and might require removing several components to reach one particular screw. Get help at first.
Avoid pot-holes: which can knock air out of tires or dislodge weights to throw tires out of balance. Some major cities have solid streets, but others may have their funds or manpower allocated elsewhere. Learn what cities you visit will have rampant pot-holes and be extra cautious.
Avoid Fuel-additives: Do not use a "fuel additive" in an older engine without expert help: fuel additives can loosen a chunk of sludge that jams engine components, potentially throwing a rod and causing $$ thousands to fix an old engine.

[alzheimer]

How to Calculate Your Car's Fuel Efficiency (MPG) (http://www.wikihow.com/Calculate-Your-Car%27s-Fuel-Efficiency-%28MPG%29)

As gas prices rise, fuel efficiency is becoming more and more of a critical factor. Knowing your car's MPG (that is, how many miles it gets per gallon) can help you determine if it's is a gas guzzler that's eating up your wallet as well. Once you figure out the MPG, you can do many useful things, like calculate how much a $.10 rise in gas prices will affect your budget, or how getting a car with better MPG will lower your monthly costs.

Steps


http://www.wikihow.com/images/thumb/b/bf/284613031_6e16eab1ed.jpg/180px-284613031_6e16eab1ed.jpg (http://www.wikihow.com/Image:284613031_6e16eab1ed.jpg) http://www.wikihow.com/skins/common/images/magnify-clip.png (http://www.wikihow.com/Image:284613031_6e16eab1ed.jpg)
Take note of the price you pay


Go to the gas station and fill up the fuel tank.
Record the mileage, before even pulling away from the pump. We will call this Mileage A.
Drive normally until the tank is less than half full.
Fill up the tank again (preferably at the same station using the same pump as pumps may be calibrated differently). This time, pay attention to how many gallons it takes to fill up the tank. This is usually shown at the pump.
Record the mileage again, just like before. We will call this Mileage B.
Subtract Mileage A from Mileage B. This will give you the number of miles you drove since your last fill-up.
Divide your answer by the number of gallons it took to fill up your tank. This will give you your car's MPG.




Tips



The higher the MPG, the more efficient your car is, and the cheaper it'll be to keep it fueled.
To determine how a change in gas prices will affect your budget, take the number of miles you expect to drive in a week (or a month, or a year) and divide it by your MPG. Then multiply that answer by the price of gas per gallon. By plugging in different prices, you'll see how much more - or less - you end up paying per week (or per month, or per year).
Try calculating your MPG more than once to get a more accurate measurement. If you did more highway driving than normal, then your MPG will be a little higher. On the flip side, if you did a little extra city (stop and go) driving, your MPG will be lower.
You can use the MPG to experiment with ways to increase fuel efficiency. For example, if you normally drive at an average of 70 MPH, then after calculating your MPG, try driving at 55 MPH and measure your MPG again - you'll probably see it go up.
Mileage will vary with different driving patterns, the less braking and acceleration will lead to better mileage. You will see higher mileage when taking highway trips than you will after a week of driving back and forth to work on city streets.




Warnings



Another easy way to figure MPG, download GasDandy at http://www.gasdandy.com (http://www.gasdandy.com/) GasDandy will calculate and record the mpg for three autos, remind you when it is time for oil changes and record business mileage. Check it out its EASY!

[alzheimer]

How to Increase Fuel Mileage on a Car (http://www.wikihow.com/Increase-Fuel-Mileage-on-a-Car)

http://www.wikihow.com/images/thumb/c/cb/Traffic.jpg/200px-Traffic.jpg (http://www.wikihow.com/Image:Traffic.jpg)
As gas prices continue to climb, increasing the fuel mileage is the best way to protect your pocket book. Here are a few ways to spend less money on gas by increasing you're car's efficiency in using it. Steps


Plan your trips. Keep lists of needs that will require a trip and try to accomplish multiple objectives with each.
Lighten your load. Get the lightest car that will serve your needs. Weight is one of the biggest causes for loss of kinetic energy in non hybrid cars. If you're not shopping for cars, then take any extra weight off of the one you're already driving. If seats that you don't use can be removed, take them out. If you use your trunk as a storage space for heavy things, find another place for them. An extra 100 pounds increases fuel consumption by 1-2%.
When you fill up with gas, only fill up 1/4 to 1/2 of your tank - unless you know for a fact you will need more for a long drive. Carrying a full load of gas increases the weight of your car and lowers efficiency. You are basically burning up fuel to carry fuel that you won't need until the end of the week.
Slow down. The faster you move, the harder your engine has to work to push through the wind. Speeding can reduce fuel efficiency by up to 33%.
Use cruise control. In most situations, using your cruise control reduces fuel consumption by maintaining a constant speed.
Accelerate smoothly. When the light turns green, resist the urge to bolt ahead of the car next to you. This keeps the engine at lower Revolutions per Minute (RPMs) thus using less fuel.
Plan your route carefully. Take the route with the fewest stops and turns and least traffic. Take highways in preference to city streets when possible.
Avoid braking wherever possible. Braking wastes energy from fuel that you have already burned, and accelerating after braking consumes more fuel than driving at a constant speed. On city streets watch ahead and coast when you see a red light or traffic jam ahead.
Set your tires to the proper inflation. Properly inflated tires can reduce fuel consumption by up to 3%. Hitting potholes can knock air from the tires hit. Your tires also lose about 1 PSI per month, especially during the winter. It is recommended to check tires at least monthly, preferably weekly.
Tune up your engine. A properly tuned engine maximizes power and can greatly enhance fuel efficiency. Beware, though, that many tuners will disable efficiency measures when tuning for power.
Check the condition of your engine air filter. A dirty filter will reduce fuel economy, or make the engine stall when idling. Just like mowing dusty grass, driving dusty dirt roads will clog the air filter: avoid dust clouds.
Replace your fuel filter according to your manufacturer's recommended schedule. This will go a long way to enhancing fuel efficiency.
Avoid excessive idling. Idling a vehicle wastes a significant amount of fuel. The best way to warm up a vehicle is to drive it slowly until it reaches proper operating temperature.
Try to avoid using the air conditioner in stop and go city driving as it causes the engine to work hard and consume more fuel. However, studies show that at highway speeds cars get somewhat better mileage with the AC on and the windows rolled up. The drag caused by rolled down windows at high speed reduces fuel efficiency more than the AC.
Find your car's "sweet speed". Some cars get better mileage at specific speeds, usually 50 mph. However, most Jeep Cherokees are best at 55 mph. Some pickups are best at 85 mph. Find your vehicle's "sweet speed" and pick your roads accordingly.
Use synthetic oil in your car to save on average 5% gas, plus fewer oil changes are needed, saving trips to the oil change place as well as less used oil in the environment.
When getting your oil changed, use a synthetic oil additive to either natural or synthetic oil. This can increase your gas mileage by up to 15% if you follow the manufacturer's instructions and recommended usage.
If your car has an automatic transmission with overdrive, make sure you drive in that gear at all times. Overdrive is the "D" inside a circle on most shifters. Several cars have buttons on the shifter which allow you to turn off the overdrive gear. Don't turn it off. Overdrive saves you gas mileage at higher speeds by using a lower ratio from engine speed to wheel speed - this places the engine at a more efficient operating point (by reducing throttling losses, etc).
Learn to watch and predict traffic signals. This can admittedly be problematic in many cases.
Don't circle in a parking lot, and keep well away from the store fronts. Look for a spot in the empty half of the parking lot. Many people spend significant time idling and creeping, waiting for a "close spot" to open up.
Maintain a log over time of how many miles you go (the main odometer) and how much gas you put in (from the gas pump, including fractions). Put it in a spreadsheet. It will keep you focused, and other methods are inaccurate; you will never know for sure if you're saving fuel, wasting fuel or just seeing errors from gas pumps that stop pumping at different points, or fractions of miles being dropped off your 'trip' odometer when you reset it.
Maintain a safe following distance! Don't stick to the bumper of the car directly in front of you. You will brake more and accelerate more to keep that unnecessary and dangerous narrow gap. Relax. Hang back a bit. He's not getting anywhere significantly faster than you are even if you're 1000 feet behind. This also gives you a lot more room to play with when you are timing lights. When he slams on his brakes, you can coast down and see if the light quick-changes green again (some do).
Avoid idling. For example, in cold weather warm the car engine no more than 30 seconds. This period of time is sufficient to ensure that the engine is properly lubricated for driving. Generally, if you can avoid 10 seconds of idling you will save gas by turning the engine off and restarting.
When traveling on a long road with the pace of traffic, draft the car in front of you. This will improve the fuel economy of both cars. You will know it is working when the car or truck sucks you in and there is less wind noise.
Select the narrowest possible tires for your vehicle that will satisify your driving style and demands. Narrow tires have less frontal area, thus reducing aerodynamic drag.
Select a gear ratio that is appropriate to your engine, transmission, and driving conditions. If you travel on the highway often and do not carry heavy loads, try a numerically lower final drive ratio (known as a "higher" ratio.) Careful not to go too "high" with the ratio, this can cause smaller engines to work too hard to keep up. Some manufacturers offer optional gearing.
On fuel-injected cars, make sure the oxygen sensors, engine emmisions system, and evaporative emmisions control systems are in good shape.




Tips



If you own an SUV, keep it in 2-wheel drive mode as it uses less fuel than 4-wheel drive mode. Be sure to unlock 4-wheel drive hubs to reduce drag.
Your fuel mileage depends mostly on your driving habits. Drive conservatively and you'll notice a difference.
When looking for a new car, always check the fuel consumption rating.
Manual transmissions tend to get better gas mileage, usually accounting for 15% power loss through the drivetrain while automatic transmissions suck up about 20% in parasitic loss.
Remember that a manual transmission will create a clutch maintenance cost.
Remember that an automatic transmission adds an average $1000 to the cost of a vehicle, and must have routine maintenance that a manual transmission does not require.
Neutral is also an option. Learn how to coast between traffic lights, applying power intermittently, as needed to keep the car rolling with traffic.
Some cars that have a crooked shift pattern for their floor shift automatic transmission, have '4' and 'D' on the same row. Many people shift the car past 'D' and into '4' because it 'feels right', then drive down the freeway complaining about bad gas mileage.
When waiting in line at drive through windows or in gas lines, don't idle the engine. Kill the engine and restart it when it is time to move up in the line.
For the best fuel mileage in city driving conditions, consider getting a hybrid vehicle.
'Regen' recovers far less energy than acceleration requires. To 'coast' further without regenerative braking excessively slowing your automatic transmission equipped hybrid, putting just the right pressure on the accelerator can prevent the 'regen' drag without adding engine power.
Be cautious of fuel injector cleaners available in parts stores as a fuel additive which, anecdotally, may damage injectors on older vehicles.
Try to schedule your trips and errands when traffic is light.
If you are always stuck in rush hour traffic after work anyway, try to find something to do near your work until the traffic dies down, rather than try to fight through it.
Try to park 'in the middle' of errands and walk between them. Saves at least a park and pull-out in a parking lot, the slow-motion trip between, and maybe even get you some exercise.
Vehicle ground effects, aerodynamics kits, and air foils, such as decklid spoilers, increase the cars drag, thus lowering fuel economy. Often times such parts serve only an aesthetic value and offer no real handling enhancments. Also, place signs or cargo on the roof so that the smaller face of the piece faces forward. This will lower the frontal area and, thus, lower drag.
Keep carbon deposits from building in your engine by reving the engine to high engine RPM's about once a week. Interstate on-ramps and overtaking vehicles are good times to do this.




Warnings



Be careful when using oil additives, some can void a warranty. Read the back of the packaging before use.
Beware of 'chipping' and other seemingly minor, yet significant vehicle modifications. These will certainly void the warranty, and the wrong one can save fuel and damage expensive engine components for your trouble.
Beware of quack remedies and testimonials about amazing savings. Every magnet and wonder widget that was debunked in the 70's is back again to tempt a new generation.
Drafting closely to a car has hazards and sometimes legal ramifications. The car in front of you could: suddenly hit the brakes or stop, swerve to avoid something in the road, pass over something in the road that your car does not have enough ground clearance to go over, kick up road debris, have an accident. Always remain at a safe distance from traffic.

[alzheimer]

How to Fix a Car That Doesn't Start (http://www.wikihow.com/Fix-a-Car-That-Doesn%27t-Start)

Repairing a car that wont start can be as simple as plugging in a wire, changing a fuse, or as complicated as replacing major engine components. The following may help you discover the problem, but there is no way to cover every possibility. We will look at individual possible problems, and ways to check for them.

Steps


http://www.wikihow.com/images/thumb/e/e9/Stalled_car_177.jpg/250px-Stalled_car_177.jpg (http://www.wikihow.com/Image:Stalled_car_177.jpg)
Check the battery. If you do not have sufficient voltage and cranking power, the car simply won't start. Have someone attach booster cables to your battery if the engine seems to be turning over slower than normal. If the battery seems charged, and the starter motor still doesn't turn the engine, the problem may be in your starter motor itself, or the battery cables. Changing the starter is not too complicated, but if you decide to attempt this, try to find someone who has done it before to help you, or buy a do it yourself manual that has a description and pictures of what you need to do.
Make sure you have fuel in your tank. Hopefully your fuel gauge is working, but some lose calibration, and will register remaining fuel when the tank is dry. You cannot open a true fuel injected system to look for fuel, but on older cars, you can remove the air filter from the breather housing by taking the wing nut or other fastener off the top and lifting the cover. Here, when you pump the accelerator pedal, you should see gasoline spray into the carburetor throttle body. Some cars have electric fuel pumps situated in the gas tank, and having someone listen at the filler cap while you turn the ignition switch from off to run, they will hear the pump cycle on for a few seconds, then click off when the system pressure reaches the required level. This can tell you if the pump is not working, but changing the fuel pump is a difficult and possibly dangerous project.
Remove a spark plug wire from your spark plug and use an insulation handled screwdriver to ground the metal fitting inside the spark plug boot to the engine, and have someone turn the engine over while you watch for a spark. You should have the metal screwdriver shaft about an eighth of an inch from a clean metal surface on the engine, and be careful not to touch any uninsulated parts of the tool while testing the plug. If you do not have a spark, you have an ignition circuit problem, and depending on the vintage of your vehicle, you may have to replace anything from a coil wire to an ignition CPU, or computer.




Tips



It is not possible to cover all the reasons a car won't crank in this article, but if you are able to find a do it yourself book at a department store or auto parts supply, or your local library, they can help with specific problems.
Look at the wires, hoses, and other components under the hood. Often, one unplugged wire, or one broken vacuum or fuel line will be the problem, and these are simple and inexpensive to fix.
Check the owner's manual for fuses, relays, and circuit breakers related to either fuel or ignition. You should be able to locate these and make sure they are not tripped or blown. In the relay block, you can exchange relays that are the same size from another component, such as the AC blower, to test the ignition relay.
If the owner's manual doesn't list a fuse or relay for the fuel pump, your car has a mechanical pump, and the only way to check it is to remove a fuel line, and turn the engine over to see if gasoline comes out, but this is very dangerous!
Even when your car doesn't start when you try the ignition, it may show a "code", or information stored in the computer, that can be accessed by a technician to find the source of your problem. This may be a "check engine" light, or other indicator.
Listen to your engine when you crank it. If you hear a knocking sound, backfiring, or misfiring, you may have serious engine problems such as jumped timing, stuck or broken valves, or a flooded carburetor.




Warnings



Do not remove any wires or other electrical parts without disconnecting the negative (-) post of the battery.
Do not remove fuel lines unless you know how to bleed off the pressure in them, injected fuel systems are pressurized, and will blow off gasoline when they are uncoupled.
When testing for spark or doing anything else which requires turning the motor over while looking under the hood, be careful of the fan blades, belts, and other moving parts.
Never turn the engine over or crank it with the breather cover removed. Fuel in the throttle body can ignite!




Things You'll Need



Once again, a do-it-yourself manual, such as Peterson's or Hayne's is more complete and vehicle specific than this article.
Battery tester or jumper cables.

[brightgalaxy5]

nice topic
keep on
:)

[مصباح]

دليلك لصيانة سيارة.. تدوم العمر


23/04/2006


إعداد: رحاب عبد المحسن** (http://www.islamonline.net/Arabic/Science/2006/04/article04.SHTML#1)


http://www.islamonline.net/Arabic/Science/2006/04/images/pic04.JPG



اقرأ أيضا:




كيف تصون سيارتك خطوة.. خطوة (javascript:openNewWindow('/Arabic/Media/2006/04/science/index.shtml','science','height=330,width=700,%20to p=0,%20left=0,%20toolbar=no,scrollbars=no'))


راكبا كنت أم سائقا استعد معنا للتعرف على متطلبات التعامل مع السيارة، وعليك بداية أن تملك الرغبة في تغيير علاقتك بسيارتك، واعلم أنها علاقة قائمة على الأخذ والعطاء لا الأخذ المجرد.


وأول نصيحتين لكل متعامل مع المركبات أن تطلع على كتيب التعليمات الخاص بسيارتك؛ فلذلك أثر فاعل في تعميق فهمك لها، واحرص على القيادة بسرعة منتظمة؛ فانتظام السرعة يعمل على الاقتصاد في استهلاك الوقود، ويحافظ على سلامتك وسلامة الآخرين.


نصائح لقيادة آمنة


- اعرف معاني علامات "أضواء التنبيه" الخاصة بسيارتك؛ فبمجرد إدارة مفتاح التشغيل من المفترض أن تضيء جميع تلك العلامات أوتوماتكيا، كدليل على أن السيارة تفحص نفسها ذاتيا، فإذا لم تضئ أي من العلامات كان هذا مؤشرا على وجود مشكلة.


- اختبر عمل جميع المصابيح، سواء المبهرة أو الخافتة، ومصابيح الضباب، ومصباح الرجوع للخلف، ومصابيح إشارات الدوران لليمين أو لليسار. يمكنك إشراك الأطفال للوقوف على عمل المصابيح.


- تجنب المنحنيات الحادة على السرعة العالية أو القيام بالانحراف يمينا أو يسارا بصورة مفاجئة.


- حاول عدم المرور على المطبات أو الحفر والمقود "الدركسيون" منحرف تماما في أحد الاتجاهين. ولا تضغط الفرامل لأقصى حد لها في أثناء الوقوف على المطبات.


- لا تترك المقود منحرفا لأقصى اليمين أو اليسار لمده تزيد عن 10 ثوان، سواء كانت السيارة في حالة ثبات أو حركة أو في أثناء الضغط على دواسة الفرامل.


- لا توقف السيارة والمقود منحرف في أحد الاتجاهين، ولا تشغلها على هذه الحال.


- لا تسير بالمنحنيات الحادة على سرعة عالية.


- تجنب الانطلاق بسرعة عندما يكون المقود منحرفا لأقصى اليمين أو اليسار.


- في أثناء الانتظار احرص على أن يكون ناقل السرعات على وضع الفصل "المور".


- لا تضغط بشدة أو بصورة متقطعة على بدال البنزين في أثناء إحماء الموتور.


- احرص على عدم تحريك ناقل السرعات من حالة الرجوع للخلف إلى السرعة الأولى أو العكس بالسيارات العادية إلا عندما تكون السيارة ساكنة تماما، أما سيارات الأوتوماتك فاحذر النقل من وضع الرجوع للخلف R إلى وضع التوقف P أو العكس في أثناء تحرك السيارة.


الوصايا الـسبع


* تابع مستوى المياه في كل عين من عيون البطارية، بشرط تزويده بالماء المقطر لا العادي.


* لا تضغط على بدال "الدبرياج" في أثناء الانتظار أو الوقوف في إشارة مرور؛ فذلك يؤدي إلى تآكل أسطوانة "الدبرياج".


* أسرع بدهن أي خدش أو احتكاك في جسم السيارة.. لتلاشي إصابة المكان المخدوش بالصدأ.


* قم بالضغط قليلا على دواسة البنزين عند استخدامك تكييف السيارة وهي ثابتة؛ حتى لا ترتفع حرارة الموتور.


* احرص على غسل مكان تثبيت البطارية "في حوض الموتور" من الأملاح التي تنتجها أقطاب البطارية بالماء الساخن؛ حتى لا يتآكل حوض الموتور.


* قم بتغيير فلتر الهواء أو نظفه بشكل دوري مع كل تغيير للزيت. فهو ينظف الهواء من التراب الذي يدخل "للكاربراتير" ومنه للموتور؛ وذلك حتى لا يدخل التراب ويختلط مع الزيت؛ فيؤدي إلى تجريح الموتور بدلا من تزييته.


* قم باستخراج الحصوات والزلط العالق بشقوق الكاوتش بصورة دورية؛ فهي تتسبب في تعجيل تلف الإطارات.


اللاءات السبـع


* لا تترك السيارة بدون تشغيل أكثر من 3 أيام؛ حتى لا تفقد بطارية السيارة شحنها.


* لا تقم بتشغيل مصابيح الإضاءة ولا مكيف الهواء قبل الانطلاق بالسيارة حفاظا على البطارية من ضياع شحنها.


* لا تشغل التكييف على أعلى درجة من بداية التشغيل، بل ابدأ بالدرجة الأولى، فالتالية، وهكذا.


* لا تقم بتزويد المبرد "الرادياتير" الساخن بالماء البارد إلا والسيارة مدارة.


* لا تهمل غسل سيارتك من الأسفل من الطين الملتصق بها فهذا يحميها من الصدأ.


* لا تقم بإيقاف سيارتك بحيث تكون إحدى العجلات على مطب أو حفرة، ومن الأفضل دائما إيقافها على أرض مستوية.


* لا تقم بزيادة زيت "الباور" الخاص بالمقود أو زيت المحرك عن حده الأقصى ولا تنقصه عن حده الأدنى.


ماذا لو؟


- لم تنتبه لإغلاق المصابيح قبل مغادرة السيارة؟


فسيؤدي إلى استهلاك شحن البطارية، وقد لا يدور المحرك في اليوم التالي؛ لذا ننصحك بعد تشغيل الكاسيت أو التكييف والمحرك متوقف.


- تم تغيير أحد فيوزات الكهرباء بآخر ليس من نفس الأمبير؟


فقد يؤدي استعمال فيوز بأمبير أعلى لسخونة واحتراق الأسلاك والموصلات بالسيارة؛ وهو ما سيتسبب في تعطلها؛ لذا ننصحك بفك الفيوز وشراء مثيله.


- إذا لاحظت اعوجاجا في أطراف داعم الإطار "الجنط"؟


فسيكون لزاما عليك عمل ما يعرف بضبط اتزان الإطارات


- إذا لاحظت وجود نقص دائم في ماء المبرد "الرادياتير"؟


فاستبدل غطاء الرادياتير بآخر جديد. وإذا استمر النقص فتوجه لمركز صيانة المبردات لمعرفة سبب التسريب.


- إذا كنت من هواة الانطلاق السريع بالسيارة؟


فاعلم أن ذلك سيتسبب في تلف أسطوانة "الدبرياج" بسبب زيادة احتكاكات الأسطوانة.


- إذا لاحظت نقصا في طاقة السيارة وتردد المحرك في الدوران عند تدويره إضافة إلى صوت فرقعة وزيادة تلك المشكلة والمحرك ساخن أو منسوب الوقود منخفض؟


فعليك فحص الفلتر "المنقي" للبنزين واستبداله إذا لزم الأمر، والتأكد من حالة سلك الإشعال.


- إذا أصدر المحرك صوتا عارما في أثناء التسخين؟


فقد تحتاج السيارة إلى تغيير الصمامات، أو أن يكون ذلك دليلا على نقص حاد في زيت المحرك أو أن هناك مشكلة في المكابس وتحديدا في أعمدة الدفع.


- كلما حاولت إدارة المفتاح رفض التحرك؟


فسيكون كابح العجلات هو ما يعوق حركة المفاتح. حاول إدارة المقود يمينا ويسارا. وإن لم تعمل فقد يكون هناك مشكلة في كابح العجلات.


- حاولت صباحا إدارة السيارة فكل ما حصلت عليه هو صوت عارم وضجيج؟


البطارية غير نظيفة أو فارغة.. حاول صب ماء ساخن على البطارية وتنظيف الأسلاك الواصلة لها، أو تغييرها. ومن الممكن أن تكون المشكلة في مشغل الحركة.


أصوات وروائح وإشارات


الروائح والأصوات غير المألوفة ما هي إلا إنذار مبكر لمشكلة ما، قد يوفر الحل المبكر لها المال والجهد الكثير لصاحب السيارة.


- رائحة العفن: تشير إلى وجود ماء راكد عادة ما يكون تحت سجادة السيارة. وذلك سوف يؤدي إلى إفساد السجادة وإحداث صدأ في هيكل السيارة. وما عليك سوى نزعها وتجفيف المياه من تحتها.


- رائحة زيت نفاذ: قد يكون السبب إما زيادة ملء خزان زيت المحرك أو علامة على زيادة احتراق زيت المحرك واحتياجه للتغيير.


- رائحة احتراق بلاستيك: يكون السبب إما أنك تقود السيارة والفرامل مشدودة أو أن يكون قد حدث سخونة زائدة للإطارات سببها احتكاكها بشيء ما.


- علامة البطارية أمامك مضيئة: المشكلة ستكون إما في البطارية أو في الدينامو أو في سير الدينامو.


- حدوث رجة مصاحبة لصوت في أثناء تشغيل السيارة أو ضعف في القدرة على التسارع: يجب فحص ما يسمى بطقم الكهرباء (البوجيهات، الأبلاتين، الكوندينسر) حيث سيكون عطب أحدها هو السبب.


- حدوث اهتزاز لعجلة القيادة أو للسيارة ككل على السرعات العالية (بدءا من 80 أو 90 كم/ساعة فيما فوق): يتم عمل ضبط اتزان للسيارة عند أحد مراكز الخدمة المتخصصة.


- سماع أصوات احتكاك عند إدارة المقود يمينا أو يسارا: ستكون المشكلة فيما يعرف بنظام التوجيه أو نقص في زيت "باور" المقود.


- سماع صوت صافرة عند الضغط على بدال الفرامل: غالبا ما سيكون السبب تسرب حصوات بين تيل الفرامل وطنبورة العجل، ويتوجب تنظيف أسفل السيارة بمحطة البنزين.


- سماع صوت احتكاك مرتفع عند الضغط على بدال الفرامل: ستكون المشكلة في تيل الفرامل وعند سماع مثل هذا الصوت قد تتطلب تغييره.


- تغير صوت المحرك: غالبا ما يكون مؤشرا على سخونة زائدة بالمحرك خاصة إذا كان الصوت يصدر في أثناء القيادة على سرعة منتظمة. ولاختبار خطورة الأمر عليك بتغيير سرعة المحرك أو توقيفه. وإذا استمرت المشكلة فعليك بتوقيف السيارة لتبرد ثم قم بفحص مستوى المياه في المبرد.


حقائق ونسب وأرقام


* القيادة على سرعة غير منتظمة بما يجعلك تتحول بين بدال الفرامل والبنزين وبشكل متهور تكلفك استهلاكا أكبر للوقود بمعدل 33%؛ فمعدل الحرق يتزايد بصورة كبيرة بزيادة السرعة عن 60 ميل للساعة.


* السير بالسيارة والمحرك بارد يقفز بمعدل استهلاكك للبنزين إلى ضعف استهلاك المحرك الذي تم تسخينه، ولكن في ذات الوقت تذكر أن المبالغة في التسخين لن توفر عليك أية أميال من التي ستقطعها.


* التغيير الدوري لفلتر المبرد لا يحمي المحرك فقط بل يقلل من استهلاك البنزين بنسبة 10%.


* الإطارات غير الممتلئة بشكل جيد تستهلك البنزين بما يقرب من 3.3% أكثر من الاستهلاك الطبيعي.


* كل 91 كيلوجراما من الحمولة غير الضرورية في سيارتك يستهلك من البنزين ما يعادل ميلا للجالون.


* وضع حمولة السيارة على سطح السيارة يخفض من استهلاك الوقود بمقدار 5%.


* 10 دقائق من التوقف وسط الزحام المروري تهدر من الوقود ما يعادل استهلاك 5 إلى 6 أميال.


جدول الصيانة دورية


العناية بالسيارة قد يتطلب منك ما هو أكثر قليلا مما سبق، فما استعرضناه سابقا يندرج تحت تعليمات لصيانة السيارة، أما ما سنذكره الآن فهو إجراءات احترازية تؤخذ كوسيلة للحيطة والحذر:


* الفحوص الشهرية:


- غسل أسفل السيارة داخل محطة البنزين مرة أو أكثر حسب الاستخدام.


- متابعة مستوى زيت الفرامل في خزان الزيت.


- القيام بضبط ضغط الإطارات الأربع، والاحتياطية.


- تغيير فلتر زيت الموتور بعد كل مرتين يتم فيهما تغيير زيت الموتور.


* كل 3 أشهر أو 3000 كيلومتر:


- يغير زيت المحرك والفلتر "المنقي" للبنزين وزيت ناقل السرعات، مع الحرص على استعمال أنواع جيدة دائما.


* كل 6 أشهر أو 10000 كيلومتر:


- مراجعة كهربائي السيارات للكشف على الدينامو.


- تغيير طقم الكهرباء.


- يفضل الذهاب لمركز صيانة المبردات "الرادياتير" للتنظيف.


- تبديل أماكن الإطارات الأربع مع بعضها البعض، وذلك لضمان انتظام تآكل الإطارات.


- ضبط زوايا العَجَل.


- مراجعة مستوى الحامض بالبطارية عند أي مركز صيانة.


المصادر:




http://autorepair.about.com (http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/a/bl304a_2.htm)


http://www.autoworld.com (http://www.autoworld.com/)


http://www.canyontraders.com (http://www.canyontraders.com/)


http://eere.energy.gov (http://eere.energy.gov/)




** محررة مساعدة بالقسم العلمي والصحي بشبكة إسلام أون لاين.نت، ويمكنك التواصل معها عبر البريد الإلكتروني التالي: rehab.bakr@iolteam.com

[kalamntena]

ربنا يكرمك يا الزهيمر انت و مصباح
بس اجيبها الاول
:smiley1:

[مصري متعصب]

و الله حاجة حلوة اتعلم اصون السيارة و بعدين اشتريها

[alzheimer]

شكرا يا دكتور مصباح على المشاركة ... بالفعل أنا كنت هاقول يا جماعة اللي يعرف حاجة بالعربي ياريت يجيبهلنا

[alzheimer]

ربنا يكرمك يا الزهيمر انت و مصباحنحن وإياكم يادكتورة كلمنتينا
بنحاول نقلدك ونقدم حاجة عملية تفيد الناس


بس اجيبها الاول

ربنا يرزقك ويرزقنا .. الموضوع برضه ممكن ينفع أبائنا أو إخوتنا اللي معاهم سيارات



و الله حاجة حلوة اتعلم اصون السيارة و بعدين اشتريها لعلمك بقى دي نوع من الثقافة اللي إحنا للأسف مش متعودين عليها
أنا أعرف واحد محترم جدا قبل مايشتري التليفزيون من ثلاثين سنة إشترى كتب كثيرة لكي يتعلم ماهية الإرسال التليفزيوني و طريقة عمل التلفاز وبعدين عمل دراسة عن الانواع و الإمكانيات و الأسعار
الراجل ده بيعمل كده قبل مايشتري أي تكنولوجيا حديثة على سبيل المثال الكاميرا الديجيتال عمل نفس الحكاية بالضبط... وبالتالي الراجل ده دايما بيشتيري أحسن حاجة بأقل سعر وعنده خلفية معتبرة في صيانة أجهزته المنزلية وثقافته العملية واسعة

[kalamntena]

ربنا يعزك يا الزهيمر


:aleed: